Top & Tilt Cylinder Test Instructions

How do I determine if the cylinder is leaking internally or if the control valve is an issue?

First test to do is attach an implement. Mark the rod(s) up next to the seal. Either a felt pen or tape work well.

Raise the 3pt hitch, and turn off the tractor.

Wait 1 hour and see how far the rod has extended on each unit, or just one unit if that is all that you are testing.

Make notes as to how far each rod extended.

Second, lower the 3pt hitch so that the implement is on the ground. Adjust the top & or tilt cylinder(s) to normal operating position and mark the rod(s).

Disconnect the couplers so that the cylinder(s) are no longer connected to the tractor's hydraulic system.

Raise the 3pt hitch and turn off the tractor.

Wait 1 hour and see how far the rod has extended on each unit, or just one unit if that is all that you are testing.

Make notes as to how far each rod extended.

This tells us if the cylinder seals are part of the problem, or if the only issue is with the control valve.

If the rod(s) extend more than 1/4" per hour when the couplers are disconnected, then the cylinder(s) need(s) a seal kit.

If the rod(s) extend excessively only when connected to the couplers, then the control valve is at fault and should be dealt with in various ways.

Most if not all rods will extend some, but what needs to be determined is how much is too much?
It is my opinion that if the movement of the rod hinders the operation of the tractor, as in you have to constantly be adjusting the unit to compensate for the rod extension, then something needs to be done.

This seems to be the most bothersome when using a 3pt mower. Some people expect to be able to set the cylinders and go out and use the mower all day long and never have to make any adjustments. This is an unreasonable expectation. There is a lot of weight hanging way out from the cylinder, a lot of leverage is being applied.

I believe that if a person can get by with a simple adjustment every hour or so, that is a reasonable time frame between adjustments. If that is not the case and adjustments need to be made more often, then one of 4 things need to be done.

Option #1. Disconnect the rod end coupler. This will lock the cylinder in place. This costs nothing and is a simple remedy. It's just that you have to remember to disconnect and then reconnect when you are done with the mower or other implement as well as having the hose & coupler secured from being down on the ground.

Option #2. Install a check valve on the cylinder itself. This eliminates the cylinder moving unless operated from the tractor with the engine running.
Down side of the check valve is that it eliminates the possibility of using the float feature if you happen to have that feature with your control valve.

Option #3. Install an electric on-off valve at the rod end hose coupler. This is the preferred option if you have and make use of the float feature option. This allows for full normal use of the control valve, but in the situation where no adjustments are being made for long periods of time, the valve can be closed and the cylinder is then locked in place.

Option #4. Install a manual ON/OFF valve on the rod end connection. This allows for normal operation when open and locks the cylinder when closed.